System Charger
Where can I get a diagram of a 1995 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail charger for free?
Well, the battery not loaded and I'm trying to get a diagram of the system preference charger owners manual so you can look at and possibly replace the alternator. I'm looking for, possibly a PDF file of the manual of the Graces, nor anything in advance! I've been trying all of Google for 45 minutes without any result.
I will answer this and I will try not to sound like an idiot, though that may be difficult for me. The wiring diagram is on the back of the service manual, and if we start to replace items such as an alternator, then you should have a service manual to repair properly. First, you must verify that the alternator is the problem. You will a fortune in cash and hours of installation time for pieces that do not solve the problem (and can not be returned to the dealer or anyone else) unless you check the source of the problem. A charging system test starts with a fully charged battery. I'm assuming that you have a volt meter, ohm for electrical testing, otherwise I'm wasting time with your question. Check that the battery is maintained at 12.6 volts DC with the key off, if something less than needed to recharge the battery before testing the charging system. I do not recommend the use of a charger in a car, but if you do not have a battery charger motorcycle then use a car charger, just put it in the lowest position and not spend more than an hour or two. Also recommend that you load test at your local auto parts the shop will check for free if you do not have a load device. The battery connections should be clean and torque specifications. Many of the problems load may be due to faulty connections. If the battery is fully charged, check the battery voltage with the engine running. It must be greater than the reading has arrived with the key off, for example, I expect a smooth operation of cargo system to read 13-14 VDC at idle to 3000 RPM, but never more than 15 VDC. If the reading is more than 15 VDC, then you have a faulty regulator. If the reading is off the same key, or less, then you have a charging system problem. If the reading is more than key off, like 13 volts or more, then the problem is that the battery charging system. I begin by monitoring the output stator in the three yellow wires coming out of the engine. This measure is volts AC, can be checked by unplugging the connector and run the engine by connecting its two test leads of the three wires. This will give the output of a leg of the stator, will have to check out the other two legs and check that the output does not vary more than 10% between measures. Imagine that the three yellow wires are numbered A, B and C. The first test is between cables A and B, the second test is between the wires B and C, the third test is between cables A and C. The measurements should be 35-52 VAC at 2000 rpm, or 19-26 VAC per 1000 RPM. If your readings are low, then check the continuity of the stator the key off, use the meter to check the ohms of resistance. It is the same location as before, AB, BC, AC, and there should be continuity between each of these cables. Less than preferably one ohm, 10 ohms indicates a problem, more than 10 ohms is a defective stator. I also check continuity to ground, ie, connect the positive lead of proof to one of the three yellow wires and the negative test lead to the battery, if they have no continuity to ground. Your meter should read OL or OFL on a digital meter, or hundreds of K Ohms on a counter of the old school. Check the three cables to verify that there is no continuity to ground. Any continuity to ground indicates a bad stator must be replaced. Here's how to know if the alternator is good or bad. A new service manual is about $ 60 at a dealer, less than half that on Ebay, and free from your local library. I reviewed all sites that have manuals free for download, and none of them carry your bike in particular. Email me if you have specific questions or need information additional.
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